Arviat, Nunavut May 18 - May 22 /2009

1. The Suluk Grandchildren & Janet (Angelina's daughter) & I 2. Bobby & Angelina Suluk & I

I had not been to Arviat in three years so was anxious to reacquaint with old friends. This was my first time staying with an Inuit family, the Suluks, and so was looking forward to this truly Inuit experience. Also I was excited to be arriving at the end of the 2009 Arviat Trout Fishing Derby and indeed my timing proved fruitful!

May 18/Mon.
I landed in the early evening after spending 5 days in Repulse Bay. There, the weather was warm and sunny, here, a blizzard-like wind howled through the hamlet. Johnny Karetak was kind enough to drive me to the Suluk home.
A few hours later Bobby Suluk and I drove to where he thought the Fishing Derby weigh in would occur but we saw nothing.
Bobby's wife, Angelina, was still out, along with her brother and several others. They were undoubtedly returning from the land.

May 19/Tues.
I dropped in at the Eskimo Point Lumber store to see my portraits of Arviat elders hanging on the back wall and to speak to Don St. John.
Saw Lynne Roland working in the Post Office and we agreed selling my art cards might be a good idea.
Angelina dropped me off at the home of Joe Savikataaq Sr.. I photographed him holding the 52 pound winner of the Arviat Lake Trout Fishing Derby. It was actually caught by Joe Jr. who would later receive $10,000 for the catch.

Lake Trout 1st Prize: measured 112.5 cm or 47.5 inches long from head to ‘V’ in tail. The entire length was 118.5 cm.
Trip: Savikitaaq's arrived at Dubawnt Lake, normally a 2 day trip, in 7 hours averaging 40km/hr!
Equipment: 2 skidoos pulling 2 komatiks (sleds) carrying gear, precooked food, spare parts and two 45 gallon drums of fuel

That night I attended the prize handout in the Community Hall for the largest trout caught in the derby. Over 200 residents were there. The festivities centered largely around Joe Savikitaaq Sr. and his son, Joe Jr. both of whom received most of prizes in cash envelopes for a total of : $21,000. One elderly woman won $1,500 for her fish.

3. Joe Savikitaaq Sr. Holding Prize Winning Lake Trout 4. Polar Bear Skin 5. Peter Illnik

May 20/Wed.
Being Family Allowance Day it was busy at the Northern Store.
I brought art cards to the Post Office for Lynne. It was nice to talk with Nadine again.
I followed Thomas Otuk to his sister’s, house. He and Elizabeth interpreted and provided input to my interview with Martha Otuk.
With directions I found Peter Illnik’s house and photographed him. He is extremely friendly but difficult to communicate with because of difficulty hearing.
Back at the Post Office I photographed a cooperative Peter Alareak. He explained the tradition of using wolverine on the collar of his parka.
Supper was a wonderful experience. As Angelina was cutting up lake trout she offered me raw fish eggs and raw trout meat. I tried both but needed a glass of water afterwards. Angelina said the Inuit eat their fish raw thawed, frozen and cooked.

May 21/Thurs.
Bobby and Angelina planned to set up their tent on the ice for the Cod Fishing Derby beginning that day and carrying on through the weekend.
At 1:00pm I headed out on the Hudson Bay ice in a komatik with 2 kids, a tent and ice auger. Angelina drove the skidoo. Ten minutes on the ice we stopped to set up the tent. It was obvious we needed rocks to hold it down. Then the skidoo wouldn’t start. Shortly after, Janet, Angelina’s daughter, arrived on a second skidoo. We headed back to at different spot and waited while Angelina took Charlene (granddaughter) back home as she was cold. It was fairly cold but Bobby has wisely insisted I wear his caribou parka, thick wind pants and warm snow boots. I was cozy all afternoon but feeling heavy when I walked home later.
After supper I was dropped off at Rhoda Karetak’s home. She just returned from a knee operation in Winnipeg. I spent a terrific hour interviewing her with the help of Charlotte’s (daughter) interpreting skills.
That evening Bobby, Angelina, their son, Robert, and I headed out on the ice to start the disabled skidoo. Afterwards we travelled to what was deemed a favorable spot, where holes were already present, and began jigging. I continued jigging while Bobby and Angelina scooted off to obtain rocks for the tent. My lack of success encouraged us to try a different location. Having found one, we decided to pitch the tent in the strong wind. We managed to erect it by securing it with rocks. Bobby and I augered several holes but the water was just out of reach and we had no extension. We returned late that evening.

6. Elizabeth Nibgoarsi 7. Some Portraits at Eskimo Point Lumber Store 8. Peter Alareak

May 22/Fri.
With the streets turning into small rivers because of a rapid spring thaw I paid my last visit to Lynne. She pointed at the empty card rack to show that the art cards had sold the day before.
I photographed Elizabeth Nibgoarsi, Bobby Suluk’s mother, outside her house.
Russell Muckpah drove me by ATV to Jimmy Muckpah’s house. I had photographed Jimmy several years ago and wanted to do so again. He has a fascinating history I was able to document to some extent at our first meeting.
Departure at 6:30pm. After we changed planes in Churchill, Joe Savikataaq Jr. sat next to me. He told me about the Trout Fishing Derby weekend experience he and his father had, backed with terrific photos to supplement his story.
10:00pm arrived in Winnipeg
Thanks to Bobby and Angelina for putting me up.
Thank you to Calm Air for the entire 10 day excursion — first to Repulse Bay then Arviat and back to Winnipeg.

9. Angelina Preparing Trout 10. Gerald Jigging 11. Bobby Cutting Caribou & Charlene Helping Herself

Portrait Gallery / News/Archives / Home / Travel / The Artist / Contact/Gallery Representation
Copyright 2002 Gerald Kuehl