1. Gerald & Mikitok Bruce 2. Skiff and Coral Harbour 3. Susie Angootialuk & I

This was my first trip to Coral Harbour or Salliq as the Inuit call it. The name Coral Harbour is derived from the pink fossilized coral that can be found in the water locally. The community has approximately 800 people, 97% of whom are Inuit, who comprise cultural groups from the Kivalliq mainland, northern Quebec and the Baffin Island region. In 1924 the H.B.C. moved their post from Coats Island to Southampton Island. Several years later Anglican and Roman Catholic Missions were set up.
The island also had a military presence as during W.W.II the U.S. Airforce built a base on the island. Most of the people still lived on the land until 1950 when the Federal Day School was built near the H.B.C. post. I had read Southampton Island is home to a tremendous variety of wildlife that includes, walrus, ringed seal, polar bear, fox and caribou. I hoped the opportunity would arise to observe some of its abundance.

Aug.12/Wed.
I arrived in Coral by Calm Air in the middle of the afternoon. The local taxi service dropped me off at the RCMP detachment office where I met 6'4" Constable Len MacDonald who had been in the community for over 1 year. I would be staying with Len for the week. I met also, Phill Boissonneault, in for a short period on relief. Both were easy-going and good cooks. I would eat well during my stay.
Not long afterwards I headed down hill and noticed a crowd on the wharf. I hurried over and was informed Hamlet Days had begun today and continued until Friday. This was great news because I would get to observe Inuit games involving perhaps some of the local elders.
This particular contest involved youth dressed in orange survival gear running and jumping as far as possible into the water. The farthest jump wins. The young participants allowed photographs after surviving the freezing ordeal.
I photographed a lady in a blue scarf, named Emily. Emily, born mute, was a very animated subject.
Walked to Marvin Dion’s house. We had met years ago when he was Mayor. Marvin is married to Epiksout, daughter of Arsene Paniuq, reknown polar bear hunter, whom I had drawn.
I made sure I was at the Community Hall that evening to view the hamlet activities. The rich wood interior reminded me of the hall in Arviat. I photographed dogs dressed up. I didn't think dogs could look embarrassed, but was wrong.

Aug.13/Thurs.
Awakened to a cloudy, rainy morning. My steps took me as usual down to the harbor. Not having grown up by the sea I am fascinated by it. The rain had stopped and the sky was beginning to lighten so I scrabbled around the shoreline to the point. The tide was receding which made the harbour look distinctively different.
During my early afternoon stroll I photographed Thomassie Nakoolak,80, who has a smile that lights up his face.
Later that day I took some shots of the harpoon throw at the baseball diamond. The distances are minimal because it is very heavy.
Len and Phill prepared a terrific supper that was attended by teacher, Krista, and nurses, Kelly and Carly. I had to leave early to make the festivities at the Community Hall. Many of the town folk turned out to watch the newspaper dress up (guy in an ingenious 1 legged pirate outfit won) and traditional Inuit leg kick. This is very difficult because the leg performing the high kick must also contact the floor first while maintaining balance. It must make for some extremely tight hamstring muscles next day. I photographed the elders playing a hat game then dice game.
Talked with Amoya, the granddaughter of elder, Rose Ussak, who was watching. She told me 5 generations were in attendance. Rose, from Rankin Inlet, was visiting her children and their offspring.

4. Coral Harbour

Aug. 14/Fri.
Marvin and Epiksout compiled a list of elders to photograph. Close by was Johnny Nakoolak so I headed over and photographed him wearing his parka.
I learned many elders like to go to their cabins at SNAFU (name left over from old army days) on the weekends.
In the afternoon I discovered from Ben Ell, brother of Amoya, that everyone involved in Hamlet activities was at the far shoreline collecting small sculpen while the tide was out. He dropped me off in the vicinity but they were just finishing so I hustled back to the ball diamond for the counting. Too late, they had left again, this time in boats to catch full size sculpen. One hour later I photographed the gutting, weighing and measuring of this colorful but not too pretty fish.
Later I took in bannock and tea making. Done on the ball diamond, Coleman stoves were employed to produce heat. Everyone gets a taste of the bannock afterwards.
Early evening I met 20 year old, Gregory Ningeocheak. He proudly displayed his walrus skull with tusks then amazed me with a story of how he and Sandy Pudlat, survived a 12 hour ordeal on an ice floe 5 months earlier while out polar bear hunting. The north leaves little room for error.
The community feast was on at the Hall. I photographed a huge array of non-traditional and traditional food. The traditional food was laid out on cardboard on the floor. I recognized muktuk, various forms of char and caribou ribs, most of which were frozen. Two large pots of caribou stew were present. I sampled much and particularly enjoyed the fried bannock.

Aug.15/Sat.
At Marvin's home I met Ipiksout's youngest sister, Celina, who would perform admirably as my erstwhile interpreter for the afternoon. We spent the day visiting, interviewing and photographing: Johnny Nakoolak (had been cloudy on first session), Michael Emiktowt, Susie Angootealuk (came outside wearing a gorgeous amauti), Mark Nakoolak (brother of Johnny) and Levina Eetuk. Four hours later I was exhausted so called it a day.
After a wonderful supper at Phill's I packed my cameras and walked out of town on the main road. I spent time at the graveyard and then Coral Harbour sign which greets visitors to the community. The pastel colored clouds made an exciting backdrop.
Spent some time around a fireplace Len and Phill had constructed behind the RCMP quarters. It was a great way to finish what had been a very productive day.

Hamlet Days: 5. Weighing Sculpen 6. Harbour Jump 7. Traditional Feast

Aug.16/Sun.
Got up early to Char fish with Len and Phill at 16 Mile Brook, less than an hour's drive outside Coral. It was a perfect morning, calm and very quiet. A Ranger camp had been set up close by. After a taste of terrific fried char we headed upriver and parked on a low cliff. From there we could see the schools of char negotiating their way upstream. The guys fished for awhile, catching several, then we drove back to the Ranger camp, collected their camping gear and headed to town.
We stopped briefly at Rocky Brook. We spotted a couple of geologists under the ‘Yellow Bridge.’ They said the rock is over 450 million years old. Impressive!
That afternoon I decided to visit the home of Mikitok Bruce. I photographed 86 year old Mikitok and his 85 year old wife, Kanayuk, just before the family headed out to their cabin at SNAFU. Both looked terrific!
That evening with the wind cooling and the sky clouding over I came upon 41 year old, Luke Nakoolak, who has been carving for 20 years.

Aug.17/Mon.
It was a cloudy morning when I trotted down to the harbour. Some young hunters were by the wharf packing their gear, readying to leave. Luke (Amoya's husband) who is reputed to be an excellent hunter, said the Duke of York Bay is a great place to hunt right now. He brought back two polar bear and two walrus 10 days ago from the region. It began to rain so I made my way home.
With the afternoon beginning to clear and the tide out, I meandered around the shoreline. You never know what the tide will leave.
After my third walk of the day I dropped in on Phill and was introduced to Guy Dupuis, the relief RCMP for Len. Len who would be heading to Winnipeg with me tomorrow.

8. Thomassie Nakoolak 9. Old Wharf 10. Emily Nakoolak

Aug.18/Tues.
The sun was trying hard to burn through the fog making the lighting distinctive this morning. I jogged to the harbour to view the effect on the crafts and water. There was also a barge off shore which figured prominently in several photos. My only companions was a family of killdeer that scurried the shoreline.
Later I spent 2 hours in the home of Mikitok Bruce; their daughter, Manny, (Manitok Catherine) interpreted. Mikitok was very talkative about his life and Inuit culture. This was one of the most memorable interviews I have ever experienced.
That afternoon Guy drove Len and me to the airport. I managed to photograph Johnny Kataluk just before departure.
9:30pm arrived in Winnipeg.
Thank you Len MacDonald for accommodations and for the great cuisine you and Phill provided.
Thanks so much to the friendly people of Coral Harbour.
Finally, my gratitude to Calm Air for making the trip possible.

11. Graveyard Under Pastel Sky 12. Drying Char 13. Luke Nakoolak Carving